Delhi. Manali. Royal Enfields. A water crossing that swallowed two bikes. A military tow at midnight. Eight days of weather, welds, and one of the best rides of my life — exactly how it happened.
Spiti didn't care whether I was ready. It asked questions you can't answer at sea level. It answered some I didn't know I was asking. Then it handed me my bike back, waved me off, and told me to come again.